|   Help with room design/materials | musbdeaf
Aug 31, 2002 9:32 PM | | I would like to build a dedicated listening room. I need help with:
optimal dimensions
wall materials & construction
flooring
electical demands & considerations
sound proofing (hoping to keep sound from upstairs)
ventilation
I hope to build this in my basement prior to X-mas. I'd like to get it right the first time. Don't assume I know anything. Cause I probably don't! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. |
| re: Help with room design/materials | Haoleb
Sep 1, 2002 12:02 PM | | Well. for electrical. which you should have a professional come and hook up (especially if ur not experinced in it) id say, get a couple dedicated 20 amp lines. with hospital grade plugs. sound proofing. use lots of insulation! |
| re: Help with room design/materials | mikert456
Sep 6, 2002 5:41 PM | | For sound Proofing put insulation but also if the budget and room will allow simply add two layers of drywall it does wonders. For flooring get the thickest carpet your budget will allow and bass traps in the the corners |
| re: Help with room design/materials | skeptic
Sep 8, 2002 6:36 PM | | If you are looking to avoid hiring an architect to design a room for you, you are making a mistake and you came to the wrong place. Not only do you need to hire one, but you will need one with very special credentials indicating that he is experienced in the design of these types of rooms. Look for one who can give you referrals from satisfied customers who have used his services for the same kind of project.
You will likely have a lot of problems as well as opportunities in a basement. For one the ceiling will probably be too low unless your basement has been constructed with extra clearance. Acoustic isolation is best with fiberglass batting inside the walls. Walls should be extra sturdy using two layers of sheetrock on the inside. Studs should be 2x4 kiln dried pine 16"OC. Be careful with the problem caused by installing recessed light fixtures. Give special consideration to heat dissipation above the ceiling expecially if you install fiberglass batting there. Use a dedicated air conditioning system and work with the mechanical contractor to be sure he understands the need to keep the ambient noise low. Sometimes baffling has to be installed in the ductwork. The architect will have to choose the type of flooring, ceiling, and wall coverings to get the RT right. The room should be large so that you don't have too high a bass cutoff frequency. if you can avoid parallel walls, you might prevent or minimize standing waves. The room should be left right symmetrical. Don't build a long narrow room. An acoustically tight door is very expensive and probably unnecessary. Just choose a good sturdy one. For additional acoustic isolation, you may want to install weather stripping and caulk the wall/floor and wall/ceiling joints. You may want the ceiling and the top plate of the walls to "float" free of the floor joists above or at least have some isolation bushings to further reduce low frequency transmission to the first floor. If you want the best results, this won't be cheap and trying to go it alone will cost you more in the long run. Good luck.
You will also need to hire a first rate contractor. Run of the mill home improvement contractors will not do the job properly. Get the architects recommendations and be certain that the architect inspects the work in progress (at your cost)and can reject it if it doesn't meet the drawings and specifications.
Oh, BTW, electrical design is easy. A couple of 20 amp circuits will be fine. Just be sure you meet the NEC for the number and spacing of outlets. Hospital grade receptacles are totally unnecessary. |
| re: I did a little research this weekend | musbdeaf
Sep 8, 2002 8:47 PM | | Yes, I am looking to avoid hiring an architect for the whole process. I would like to learn as much as possible BEFORE consulting one. You know an educated consumer. Cost is an issue for me. Every penny saved goes towards a better system. I feel very capable of handling this myself. Though my original post says don't assume I know anything. I only added this because people make assumptions. I'm no audio/architect. I'm very experienced in construction.
I will have approx. 9ft ceilings when finished. I figured r-30 insulation between 2x12 joists, 3/4 sound board, 5/8 fireboard drywall. Should I still do two layers?
The space I have set aside measures 26'x 20'. Keep in mind this is strictly for two channel listening. No TV! Should I square it off to 20x20? What in particular can I do to prevent standing waves? If the room is sealed fairly tightly wouldn't this make the room a large drum? Also forcing sound into the ducts even though baffled? Could it be one way vented into the basement or outside? Sound coming out into the basement wouldn't be as big an issue as going upstairs. Good sound IS a bigger issue than anything else. I just don't want to blow my poor wife away upstairs.
Exterior block walls will be 2x4 16" oc against 2x4 sideways firring strips for ease of wiring. Allowing r-19 insulation. Interior walls will be 2x6. Allowing r-19. If I use 3/4 soundboard first should I stiil double the drywall here?
I have already contacted an A/C contractor familar with insulated baffled ductwork. He said the ducts cannot run into the room, but must terminate at the interior wall. They may also need a dedicated fan because of the baffles depending on the volume of the room. He said the fan will be extremely quiet, not silent. Does anyone know if he's right?
How many recepticles should I allow for equipment? I would like to make allowances for future upgrading and maximum convenience. Please consider height, grouping and switching configurations.
What sound treatments are available? Any good/bad experiences? Are there reviews available anywhere? Links to mfg?
Links to any mfg, architect/design, DIY,etc would be greatly appreciated. And thanks skeptic! |
| re: I did a little research this weekend | snickelfritz
Sep 9, 2002 1:08 AM | | You should strongly consider purchasing a panamax line conditioner. Every plug and cable leading into your system will be connected to this.
It can reduce hum and noise from satellite dishes etc... considerably, and correctly installed, carries a warranty that covers all connected equipment.
I've noticed that a powered subwoofer makes a huge demand on the electrical circuit. Probably should be on its own 20 amp circuit.(you'd need another Panamax unit for this circuit as well)
For the backwall of your room, you might consider building in some shallow(8" deep) floor to ceiling bookshelves for storing DVD's, CD's, books and tapes.
This will act as a very effective sound diffuser in this location.
For the front wall of the room, behind the TV and main speakers, you can build a frame(floor to ceiling; wall to wall) onto the wall using 2x8's and suspend a layer of 3.5" fiberglass insulation(no paper liner) in the front half of the frame, creating an air pocket behind the insulation.
This should damp early reflections down to well below 200hz pretty effectively.
Early reflections from the front wall will have a timing that is very similar to the direct output of the speakers and can smear the image and cause flutter echoes.
Some people use chickenwire to suspend the insulation, but this is very difficult to work with, and increases the cost of the job.
Instead, use some scrap 1x2 lumber nailed across the spaces between the studs in your frame.
Set the 1x2's back about 4" with the narrow side facing the room. Staple the insulation to these ribs.
The outer surface of the insulation should not protrude beyond the front face of the frame.
Space the ribs about 24" apart, and place one at the top and bottom as well.
Be sure to seal to seal the gap between the wall and frame with siliconized caulk to prevent buzzing and resonances from forming.
Hide the insulation with acoustically transparent cloth. |
| re:What about Monster Cables conditioner/surge protector? | musbdeaf
Sep 9, 2002 3:46 PM | | Thanks for the other ideas! Keep 'em comin'! |
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